Update

This post must start out with an apology and an explination. I am sorry for my abscence from this blog. There have been compounding issues that have made it extremely difficult to keep up with this. And hey, even from this I can teach you a little about Nepal. Internet access in general has been very difficult to come across. In the last month I've seen it only four times our so. And when you do reach it the connection is abismally slow. This makes it impossible to upload any pictures and even difficult to write posts. The power will unexpectly go out when it rains. And that's all the time now that its the monsoon.

My research has gone very well, I'm in good health and making great strides with language. Sometimes have been difficult and I have missed home, but this is such an amazing experience. I've learned so much about the culture, the language and myself. I'm looking forward to continuing that in the next few months. This past month I have been working with my advising professor in Lamjung, collecting data and making a map of the businesses on the bazaar. This has put me in the situation of conducting interviews about businesses in Nepali. Very stressful to begin with, but more and more enjoyable as I become more comfortable. Starting the first week of August I will be moving around Western Nepal working on my personal research project. During the duration of this time I don't expect to have internet.

As a way to make up for the difficulties in providing content, I am going to do a retrospective recap, on this blog, of my trip when I return. That way I can comprehensively describe and post many of the pictures I have taken. I will be returning sometimes in October (its not set yet). So check back around that time for updates. Until then, I may post every so often, maybe just to assure my parents I'm alive :). Thank you for all your thoughts, I can't wait to see you all when I return home.

-Kumar Gandharba (Dain)

After a few days in Kathmandu, it was off to Lamjung for some much needed time off and to prepare for my work in the coming months. I was accompanied by my advising professor and students from Wake Forest. The drive between Kathmandu and Besisahar is only 75 miles or so, but takes around seven hours to complete. It begins by climbing to the rim of the Kathmandu valley, and then quickly descending down to the valley floor of the Marsyandi Khola (one of the largest rivers in Nepal). The Prithvi Highway is the only major road that transverses Nepal West to East. While the road is paved, it is very difficult to maintain due to heavy traffic and mudslides during and monsoon. The winding mountain road is only two lanes long, so an important system has been developed to increase safety when cars, trucks and motorcycles pass each other. First, a driver lets his intentions to pass be known by honking at the car ahead of him. If the passing car can see the road is clear, he will then quickly pass. If not, the driver being passed will do one of two things. If the path is clear, he will either put his turn signal on, or motion with his hand out the side of the vehicle. If the pass cannot be completed  he points his finger down to the ground, and then signal the passing vehicle on when it is safe. At first, the driving in Nepal seems chaotic and disorderly, but as you continue to watch a order presents itself out of the chaos.

Upon our arrival in Besisahar, we checked into the hotel Gangapurana. This was the same hotel I stayed at for two and a half weeks last year, I even stayed in the same room. It overlooks the bazaar, and there is nothing better than sitting in front of the hotel, watching daily life pass by in front of you. Watching children play, business transactions in stores and cars and people pass by can really tell you something about the culture. I sat there for countless hours last year, and being back here was the moment I realized what the next five months would bring and how thankful I was to be back.

My goals for this time included starting language lessons from my professor. He has been working in Nepal since 1979 and has a good grasp on the language. It was good to have other students around to practice language with, making mistakes and finally coming to an understanding of the concept. Its a very rewarding experience when you stumble with a concept in learning language and you finally understand it. The other goal was to visit the many places we did research in last year. Upon arriving in the villages, I immediately recognized people and names that I hadn't thought of for a year instantly came back to me. They also recognized me and wanted to know about the past year. When you tell Nepalis that you will be returning in a year they don't really believe you. Too many times have tourists promised to come back, and never return. It is understandable because of the high costs of transportation and difficultly in finding time to commit to return. So when I was actually able to return, many people were overjoyed to see me. In their minds I gained a lot of respect, they now trust I will always return.

We were able to see many of the development projects we worked on during our last trip. Proper sanitation and clean water are still unavailable to many Dalits. In one Daami village (Dalit tailors) we installed two water taps to increase their availability  to clean water. We returned this year to find the two water taps still functional but in need of repairs. We will continue to work with these villages to increase development, helping by funding the installment of new water taps and toilets. Even though some repairs were needed, it was very rewarding to see something you had helped work on make a positive difference in the lives of these people.

Also, while in Besisahar I took the opportunity to have the Daami tailors outfit me with some new clothing. There are many Daami shops on the bazaar, but I like to support two tailors from Maigum (the village we installed water taps in). They have a wide selection of fabrics, many of which look like current American styles. They then take all of your measurements, ask how you would like it to fit and the style (Nepali style, collared shirt, long or short sleeve). It is tailored to your exact specifications. I ordered three shirts (2 long sleeve, one short sleeve) and a pair of pants. In three days I had new clothing that fit exactly to my specification and all together cost Rs 2,000 ($28). The picture in the prior post under the Pipal tree is an example of their craftsmanship, I can assure you they are some of the finest shirts I have ever owned. Its really a win-win situation, I am able to support them with my business, but also get wonderfully crafted dress shirts.

After a week or so (you always loose track of the days in Nepal, time just isn't that important) it was time to return to Kathmandu and start my project. I was feeling confident, but still needed to nail down a research assistant, language lessons and a place to live. 

Pictures from Lamjung

After a week in Lamjung, I have made it back to Kathmandu! Today is a busy day, I will work to find lodging, hire a research assistant and find a place to take language lessons. I will post about my time in Lamjung later today or tomorrow. Until then, here are pictures from my first few days in Kathmandu and in Lamjung. I'd love to upload higher quality versions, but the internet here just wont allow it. If you click on each picture a higher resolution image will open. Enjoy!

A man reading the Kathmandu Post in Kathmandu, Nepal. Only since the Maoist Revolution in the early '00 has the press in Nepal become free.

Kabita, a friend and co-worker from last year in Kathmandu.

On of right, Lamjung Himal  (elevation 22,910 ft) in the early morning. Taken from above Besisahar, Lamjung

A Buddhist Gompa above Besisahar (seen between trees). Villagers travel to the Gompa each morning to worship and perform Pujas (religious ceremonies)

Many ornaments are attached to cars in Nepal. Here, the Buddha has been place on the grill of a car.

View of Lamjung Himal and a Buddhist Gompa

Himal seen through Buddhist prayer flags

Town of Besisahar (population around 12,000) from above.

An orchid growing in a Pipal tree next to the Buddhist Gompa in Besisahar 

Research team in Bhalvatar, a village above Besisahar

Rainbow stretching across the valley where Besisahar is located

A Pipal tree in Sundar Bazaar, Lamjung.  

Kesh, our superman guide, at lunch in Sundar Bazaar, Lamjung.

Proof that I am actually here! Children love to tag along in pictures.

My advising professor, in conversation with some Nepalis

Namaste. Well, I didn’t quite make my 24 hour promise. But it illustrates an essential part of Nepali culture, things will happen when they may. Nepali people are largely unconcerned about being punctual, and waiting at least a half hour past a scheduled time is common. Nonetheless, here is an update from my first few days.

The last few days have been defined by the process of writing and approving a new Nepali Constitution. The initial deadline for the approval of the new Democratic Constitution was set for May of 2010, during my prior visit. At the last minute, before the expiration of the interim Constitution, a one year extension was given to the writing process. That extension expired Saturday (another three month extension was signed) and has sparked a public outcry for the Government and party officials to stop delaying the process and finish the Constitution. As a form of protest political groups organize Bandhs, shutting down commerce and transportation. These strikes forbid motor vehicle transportation and prevent businesses from opening. The only exceptions are for ambulances and traffic to and from the airport. For the second and third days we were in Kathmandu, two Bandhs were called by different groups to protest the stalemate in the Constitutional process. This made it impossible to go anywhere not accessible by foot. Again, illustrating that scheduling in Nepal is mostly theoretical.

Yesterday we traveled to the southern portion of the Kathmandu valley. My advising professor has completed research of this area in the past and I have made acquaintances from this area . We were treated to a huge meal of Dal Bhat, the national food of Nepal consisting of lentils and rice, and caught up with old friends. I was unable to take pictures of the area but began taking pictures today. I will hopefully upload some pictures tomorrow (if there is internet).

Tomorrow we are off to Besisahar, Lamjung where I spent the majority of my time last semester. It will be a quick trip before I return to Kathmandu to begin my research project. Once I return I should have much more time for frequent and in depth posts, but the last few days have been busy with language classes and logistics. That’s all I have for now, I hope all is well back in the grand ol' USA.

I have arrived!

After about 40 hours, I FINALLY have arrived in Nepal! It is wonderful feeling to be back, catching up with friends. The jet-lag has been terrible thus far, slowly but surely I'm adjusting to my life half way across the world. I don't have the chance to give a full update of my first day at the moment, but be watching for another post in the next 24 hours or so.

The Pipal Tree

The inspiration for the name of this blog, the Pipal tree (Ficus religiosa) can be found throughout Nepal and South Asia. Doting urban and rural areas, a Pipal tree can be found in the center of almost all Nepali villages. It is under the Pipal tree that much of daily life is conducted, serving as a place of business, religious worship and community meetings. During the dry season people congregate under the Pipal tree to escape the intense sun rays and catch up with neighbors. It is believed that sitting under a Pipal tree on a regular basis will improve health and extend life. In addition to its social importance, the Pipal tree is the source of many herbal medicines. Traditional Ayurvedic medicine takes advantage of all parts of the tree to alleviate disorders as far ranging as diarrhea to diabetes.

The Pipal tree has long been important to the culture of Nepal. It was under a Pipal tree that the Buddha sat for 49 days in mediation, achieving enlightenment (Bodhi). Under this tree the Four Noble Truths were revealed to the Buddha. These truths (suffering exists, suffering arises from attachment to desires, suffering ceases when attachment to desire ceases, and freedom from suffering is possible by following the eightfold path) became the foundation of Buddhism. Because of this importance, the Pipal tree has become a symbol of the happiness and prosperity of a community. A village without a Pipal tree is seen as a village without cohesion, without prosperity.

During my trip to Nepal in the summer of 2010 I became very interested in the function of the Pipal tree in Nepali society. I spent many afternoons under Pipal trees reading books and learning the Nepali language. Most places where we traveled had well developed Pipal trees, but one village was entirely without a Pipal tree. There was a place set aside for a Pipal tree, but none was growing. As my travels came to a close I decided to plant a tree for this community. With the help of the locals, my research group planted a tree and constructed a protective screen to protect it from goats and children. Additionally, I gave money to a local woman to care for the tree. This woman suffers from multiple disabilities and the money went a long way to pay for her medical expenses. I look forward to returning to Maigum to see our tree (hopefully!!) and continue to support the woman and her care of the community's tree. 

Namaste

I'd like to start this blog by thanking everyone for their support. Fundraising was a great success, and with additional support from Wake Forest I was able to extend my research trip until November. 

Nepal (in blue) is positioned between India and China in South Asia

I am writing this blog because its important for me to share my experiences. I hope it can connect people to a culture that some may have never even imagined existed. My goal is describe through text and pictures my interactions in daily life and the struggles and triumphs of immersing myself in a place where the intricacies of language and culture are unfamiliar. Before I begin I would to outline some important terms that will be useful in reading this blog:

• The Caste System is a traditional and complex system of social stratification. Social hierarchy is based on Jāti, which identifies an individual with a clan or community. Jāti  is ascribed at birth and unchangeable. Occupation and social interactions are associated with Jāti. The thousands of Jāti fall into one of the four Varnas: Brahmin (scholars & priests), Kshatri (kings & warriors), Vysya (agriculturists & merchants) and Shudra (service providers & artisans). Low castes, or Dalits (see below) are considered outside of the four Varnas. The ranking of society is based upon a concept that can be roughly translated to purity. An individual's purity is determined by their occupation and thus the caste they belong to. Purity is the greatest in Brahmins and decreases down the four Varnas with untouchables being the least pure. Discrimination based upon caste (thus purity) is commonplace in Nepal, and is based upon maintaining the purity of high castes. Impurity can be transfered between individuals, especially by food and water. Thus a high caste individual will never accept water or food from a lower caste. This creates a barrier of unaccountability between high and low castes. Discrepancies in purity prevents direct contact between high and low castes, burdening low castes by restricting access to education, healthcare, religious ceremonies, water taps, farm land and decreasing chances for social mobility. 
• Dalits are a political group of untouchable castes within the Hindu caste system.  Because of their caste position, Dalits are at a much greater risk of suffering from poverty, illness, illiteracy, and political and social exclusion. Dalits are ascribed this status because their traditional occupations are regarded as ritually impure through their association with dead organisms or waste. Occupations which are considered impure include leather working, butchering, tailoring and the removal of animal carcases. These activities pollute the individual, making the impure. The Nepali Constitution has outlawed caste discrimination, but it continues to be an integral part of determining the daily interactions between people. 
• The Gandharba (also called Gaine) are a Dalit caste who were traditionally minstrels. In the past they roamed rural Nepal, spreading the news of the day and singing traditionally folk tunes. Associated with the Gandharba, is the Sarangi, a four stringed instrument the size of a violin but played like a cello. With the advent of radio and television the traditional Gandharba occupation has become largely obsolete. Instead, many of the Gandharba men have moved to Kathmandu. Here, they perform on the streets and sell Sarangis to tourists. The Ganhdarba men generally come to Kathmandu and work for a month or two before returning to their homes and families in rural Nepal. 

A Gandharba playing a Sarangi (2010)

For the first two months of my stay I will live with the Gandharba caste in Kathmandu. Last summer I spent considerable time with this group at their homes in the Lamjung District of Nepal, studying their usage of health care systems. During the summer I will have three main objectives. The first is to complete an ethnographic study of the Gandharba. This will consist of participating and observing in the daily life of the Gandharba. In addition, I will be collecting the lyrics of the Gandharba songs and interviewing the composers about the meanings expressed in their songs (I will post more about this project in a later post). My second objective is to take daily language lessons in Nepali. I will also be volunteering in a urban hospital, gaining practical medical knowledge. 

A map of Nepal

After my time in Kathmandu, I will move to the rural Lamjung District, 100 miles West of Kathmandu. Here I will have the same objectives, just in a new environment. I will move throughout the district, visiting Gandharba villages and collecting ethnographic data. If you have any questions just shoot me an email at finkdd8@wfu.edu. Thanks for reading!